What is an Afghan Dress?
An Afghan dress can be many things because its origins are from many people. There are more than 50 ethnic groups in Afghanistan; each with their own distinctive clothing styles.
While there are many influences on the ”Afghan dress”, some elements are universal. Afghan dresses are characterized by their often cotton material, long sleeves, drawstring pants, and overall loose fit. Embroidery, embellishments, colors, lengths, silhouettes and fabrics vary by region.
In the west, Afghan dresses are assumed to have an excess of everything. Unsurprising considering western countries habits of overindulgence. A ”typical” Afghan dress is thought to have heavy embroidery, patterned fabrics, many bright colors, long sleeves, voluminous trousers, and lots of hand-sewn trinkets (small coins, beads, crocheted mirrors, etc.)
When a few of these elements come together, they make a beautiful dress. Using all of them at once puts the design’s integrity at risk. It becomes a question of whether the outfit speaks to authenticity at all. Or if its visual chaos instead caters to western assumptions of what Afghan dresses should be; for reasons unrelated to cultural preservation.
Kuchi Dresses
The most popular styles of Afghan dresses are described as Kuchi. ”Kuchi” is associated with an ancient nomadic people in Afghanistan who have traditional customs and clothing. The word roughly translates to “kitschy” in English. A fitting descriptor considering the evolution of Afghan dresses preferred in the west.
Kuchi dresses are recognized by heavy embroidery on the sleeves and chest, voluminous trousers, and a matching chaadar (thin headscarf). Afghan fashion is conservative so dresses usually have loose silhouettes with full skirts and long sleeves. Trousers can be baggy or more form-fitting as long as the outfit covers your entire body. You will never see an Afghan dress that shows any bare leg.
Similarly, long sleeves are necessities. The cuffs are usually embroidered with ornate trim. The same trim is often sewn onto the dress’s hem. Hand-sewn elements are also common; like small mirrors, beaded tassels, and coins. Common fabrics include cotton and velvet, but patterned fabrics are also well-represented recently.
Nurestani Dresses
Nurestan is an eastern province of Afghanistan that borders Pakistan. Its history as “Kafiristan” – Land of the Non-Believers in English – possibly contributes to its slightly less conservative dress styles.
Some distinct features of a Nurestani dress are a modest opening down the middle of the chest and a waist that is pronounced either by an adjustable band or in general construction. Other than these elements, Nurestani and Kuchi dresses are virtually identical.
Afghan Jewelry
Afghanistan also has distinct jewelry and headwear that is often paired with dresses.
Afghan jewelry is ornamental and striking. Headpieces often have a large, beaded focal point with a heavily beaded band. It’s common to see small bells or round beads hanging from the band. Their length often extends to cover the wearer’s forehead.
Necklaces are similarly stunning. They often have high collars, many colors, and long lengths thanks to layers of beaded design.
The color palette for both headwear and necklaces is somewhat muted. Hardware is traditionally silver while beading and other plastic elements are multicolored.
The Hunt for an Afghan Dress in the West
Finding an Afghan dress in America has been a lifelong struggle in large part due to access. My family and I lived in Minnesota for around 10 years where we knew every Afghan in a 50 mile radius; often because we were related.
While our family is large, it isn’t large enough for someone to own an Afghan dress shop. It was much easier to find Pakistani or Indian apparel than anything Afghan. Our only resource was online shopping where the selection was dismal and prices astronomical.
I had the same red Afghan dress from the time I was 14 to 26. I outgrew it quickly, but I never had the budget for a new one. The available designs didn’t inspire me to save up either.
Luckily, a lot has changed since I was 14. Platforms like Whatsapp, Amazon and Etsy make it possible for business owners to make their Afghan dresses available with competitive prices. A lot of businesses also have Instagrams and Facebooks where you can message owners directly about their selection!
All this access is a joy compared to the years of Afghan dress scarcity. Now, you can actually find the dress of your dreams; it’s just a matter of choosing the right vendor. If you’re having trouble finding places to peruse, don’t worry, we got you!
Where to Buy Afghan Dresses
1. Afghan Fashion
Afghan Fashion offers a large selection for women, men and children.
2. Sarah’s Afghan Dresses
Sarah’s Afghan Clothes has modern options for women, men and children.
3. Zeba Afghan Collection
Zeba Afghan Collection offers traditional, glamorous dresses with superstar clientele like Aryana Saeed!
4. Seengar
Seengar has modern and unique styles with lots of accessories.
5. Aseel
Aseel offers reasonably priced dresses and a huge selection made by artisans in Afghanistan. The most recent Afghan dress I purchased was from Aseel – see below.
References
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